CMBO Eco-Travel tour summary
September 18-23, 2024
Monhegan Island is a small bump in the ocean (1.7 miles long and 0.7 miles wide), twelve miles off the mid-coast of Maine, that has played a larger role in history than most people would ever imagine. Monhegan was known to European explorers, even before the Weymouth Expedition in 1605, the arrival of Captain John Smith in 1614, and its use as a significant fishing outpost, with its protected harbor provided by the smaller and fortuitously situated Manana Island. In 1839, it officially became the Monhegan Plantation and limited settlement and development soon followed. In the rush to take advantage of its natural beauty, including the highest cliffs on the Atlantic Seaboard at 160’, freshwater pond and nine-acre meadow, and extensive spruce/fir forest, Monhegan soon succumbed to human pressure and overuse, with much of its timber removed by the early 20th century. It was the foresight and personal appreciation of Thomas Edison’s son, Theodore, that led to the eventual purchase of 23 parcels and the formation of the Monhegan Associates in 1954 to protect the lands forever. Today, two-thirds of the island is in a natural state, with miles of trails providing access. The combination of regrowth, plantings, and rugged coastline, along with the small artist-colony and lobstering town and the second highest positioned lighthouse in Maine, provide the charm and ambiance that continue to enchant and inspire visitors.
Manana at sunset
Of course, for us, it was the allure of Monhegan’s rich ornithological history, with records dating back over 100 years, extensive checklist, and continued enjoyment and postings by today’s birders that brought us to the island in the middle of September, to partake of fall migration at a true migrant trap. Along with the chance to view a diverse set of species, often at close range, Monhegan has a long list of rarities and vagrants recorded throughout the years.
Meadow at first light
Leaving our vehicles on the mainland, we embarked on our tour from the Monhegan Boat Landing in Port Clyde, boarding Elizabeth Ann at 3 PM for the approximately one hour crossing to Monhegan, passing through several miles of near-shore islands before the open water expanse that led to Monhegan. Moderate fog limited our viewing, but added an element to the trip all its own. Even before we left the dock, an Osprey and Bald Eagle flew past the picturesque harbor and we noted the resident Rock Pigeons, a rare sighting on Monhegan. Common Loons and Black Guillemots greeted us as we left the harbor, and ever-present Herring Gulls, Double-crested Cormorants, and Common Eiders were in view for the first portion of the trip. A gathering of over fifteen seals were hauled up on one of the small rocky islands. A smattering of gulls materialized out of the fog on the ride across open ocean, highlighted by one distant Northern Gannet, before Monhegan itself appeared before us.
Common Eider
Foggy ride to Monhegan
After arriving at the small dock, centrally located on the west side of the island, we quickly checked into our nearby accommodations, and set off on our first trek—birding the main roads and ice pond located in the middle section of the island. Despite the many wooded acres on Monhegan, mainly situated on the eastern and northern portions of the island, the best birding often occurs right along the town’s gravel roads and nearby trails, with clumps of lilacs and apple trees often a favorite location. We headed straight to the Ice Pond—a serene freshwater pond in the middle of the island that attracts wayward waterfowl, shorebirds, and wading birds, and warrants a stop to see what may have dropped in. We were rewarded with a male Wood Duck amongst the expected Mallards and a solitary Solitary Sandpiper on the mud flat at the far end (present at this location the whole trip). A quickly passing Merlin, the first of many on the tour, provided a moment of excitement. A stroll along Tribler Rd. past the Community Garden produced our first migrant flock, highlighted by Red-eyed Vireos, Nashville Warbler, Black-throated Green Warblers, Northern Waterthrush, Song Sparrows and a White-throated Sparrow. We finished by checking the pump house area at the back of the nine-acre Meadow, a marshy area that is the source of the island’s water, before heading to the Island Inn for a relaxing dinner—the first of many wonderful meals on the island.
Ice Pond
Solitary Sandpiper
Our first full day (Day Two) on the island was overcast but comfortable (the temperate range for the entire time on the island only varied from 57-63 degrees), as a coastal system moved into the area, bringing the northeast winds that would stick with us the rest of the trip. The daily morning pre-breakfast ritual trip to the Ice Pond began with a stroll up Blackhead Rd., producing many Ring-necked Pheasants coming to feed in a resident’s yard—a sign of the stable population scattered across the island. Passing the Ice Pond down Mucky Lane provided an unobstructed vista to the west, past Nigh Duck and Outer Ducks to the mainland beyond—islets hosting many Herring and Great Black-backed Gulls and Double-crested Cormorants. This site produced our highest count of Black Guillemots, as 34 were scattered around the islets and shoreline. After breakfast, we checked out Tribler Rd. and the Community Garden on our way to the pump house, before heading south. Stops at Fish Beach and the road across from Trailing Yew produced 2 Lesser Black-backed Gulls and 2 Clay-colored Sparrows, respectively. We proceeded all the way to Lobster Cove Trail and Lobster Point. An uncommon Great Cormorant flyby landed at the southern end of Manana and afforded scope views. Our daily break for lunch provided an opportunity to experience the famed pizza at The Novelty, clam chowder at The Barnacle, or a selection from the The Mooring Chain, Trailing Yew or general store. Lunch was disrupted by rain that delayed our departure for afternoon birding. With it still raining lightly, we decided to make the best of it and headed up Lighthouse Hill, past the Monhegan Museum and lighthouse itself—celebrating its 200th birthday—and across the Ball Field to take the trail to White Head, one the two 160’ high headlands on the eastern side of the island. Reaching our destination, the rain and wind had other ideas and forced a hasty retreat. By the time we returned to Lighthouse Hill, the rain abated and the skies brightened, bringing increased bird activity. The Community Garden area kept our attention for the rest of the afternoon, producing a mix of Red-eyed Vireos, warblers and sparrows, highlighted by 2 Lincoln’s Sparrows.
Ring-necked Pheasant
Lesser Black-backed Gull
Monhegan Lighthouse
Day 3 brought a strengthening of the winds and an increase in species diversity. Our early morning jaunt was highlighted by a Yellow-billed Cuckoo along Tribler Rd. and Cedar Waxwings overhead. We spent the majority of late morning birding the southwest portion of the island, as the strong northeast winds concentrated migrants along Ocean Dr. and along the shoreline near the Wyeth House. Highlights were numerous, including 5 flyby Black Scoters, streaking Merlins, Yellow-bellied Sapsuckers, Blue-headed Vireo, White-eyed Vireo, Purple Finch, Northern Parulas, Cape May Warbler, Black-throated Blue Warbler, Black-and-white Warblers, Palm Warbler, Northern Waterthrush and more. A Rusty Blackbird and flyby Black-bellied Plover were added on our return to town. After lunch, we explored the southeast portion of the island, taking Underhill Trail to the sweeping views at Burnt Head, with lots of Common Eiders in the crashing waves below. We added a flyby Greater Yellowlegs on the way out and enjoyed a return over Horn’s Hill, granting another great view of this special island.
Seawatching at Burnt Head
Great Black-backed Gull
The sun finally greeted us on Day 4, while the winds continued their strong pace. The clearing skies spurred some nocturnal movement and the arrival of new birds on the island, producing the day with the greatest diversity. It was quickly noticeable pre-breakfast at the Community Garden, as sparrows flitted among the fences and elderberry bushes, notably Lincoln’s, White-throated, Sparrow and Song. Common Yellowthroats and a Wilson’s Warbler worked the garden edges and Ruby-throated Hummingbirds visited the Jewelweed. Northern Flickers were calling behind the Ice Pond and a Sharp-shinned Hawk made multiple fruitless passes at a Belted Kingfisher. Post-breakfast, we wandered southward to revisit yesterday’s busy locations, and found them even busier. Along the way, 4 Wood Ducks passed over the harbor on their way to the Ice Pond—later seen jumping for berries at the pond’s edge. A broad apple tree along Ocean Ave, with lots of fallen apples below and ringed by weedy vegetation, was the star of the day. This apple tree hosted numerous warblers within and below, including Tennessee, Northern Parula, Yellow Warbler, Yellow-rumped Warbler, Prairie Warbler, Blackpoll Warbler, Black-and-white Warbler, American Redstart, Common Yellowthroat and Northern Waterthrush, as well as Red-eyed Vireos and Indigo Bunting. A Yellow-breasted Chat performed the usual disappearing act in the shrubs behind. Turning the corner towards the Wyeth House we encountered our largest number of migrants moving through the spruces, led by Red-eyed Vireos and Yellow-rumped and Palm Warblers, along with Golden-crowned and Ruby-crowned Kinglets, Blue-headed Vireos, Magnolia Warbler, Black-throated Green Warbler and Canada Warbler. A pair of Dickcissels working the grass path to a seaside cottage were a pleasant surprise, with scope views had by all. We shifted gears after lunch, visiting the spruce/fir forests of the northern portion of the island. Our path took us out Black Head Trail and looped across Maple Trail to the magical ambience of Cathedral Woods. Along the way we were serenaded by Red-breasted Nuthatches and Golden-crowned Kinglets and encountered several houses of the elusive woodland fairies.
Lincoln’s Sparrow
Black-throated Green Warbler
Red-eyed Vireo
Fairy House in Cathedral Woods
The weather remained steady on Day 5. We encountered the usual suspects before breakfast, including the ‘bink’ of an overhead Bobolink, more Cedar Waxwing flocks winging by, and a spate of sparrows and Common Yellowthroats around the Community Garden. After breakfast, we ventured south to check on the “magic” apple tree. Along the way, we encountered our highest number of raptors, with Sharp-shinned Hawks and a Northern Harrier passing through, and all three falcons patrolling the island. The magic tree didn’t disappoint, with a Northern Waterthrush bobbing its way below. The biggest surprise, however, was a Sora wandering in circles in the darkness underneath, seemingly oblivious to the happy birders nearby. A Chestnut-sided Warbler, new for the trip, and an Eastern Phoebe gave great views. Reaching the shore, we discovered a male Black Scoter trying to hide in a flock of Common Eiders. A return to White Head after lunch, via Red Ribbon Trail, produced more fantastic experiences in Monhegan’s diverse habitats. The dense spruces seemed like another world, eventually opening up to expansive views, seemingly almost reaching to Europe. Herring and Great Black-backed Gulls took turns hanging in the air right in front of us, enjoying the brisk breeze. Our return took us to the top of Lighthouse Hill, providing views to the west, including Manana and the mainland sporting the distant Camden Hills. Our descent through the historic cemetery led to Alder Trail, yielding our only Yellow-bellied Flycatcher. We finished the day with a decadent dinner at the Monhegan House, reviewing the birds we’d seen and enjoying the camaraderie of fellow birders.
Sora
Eastern Wood-Pewee
Seawatching at White Head
Red Ribbon Trail
Dinner at the Monhegan House
Our final morning on the island was delightfully clear, spotlighting the beauty all around us. The Meadow produced bright views of the continuing male Wood Duck, as well as a Green-winged Teal. Three Wilson’s Warblers, two females and one male, were enjoyed along Mucky Lane. Full of lobster scrambled eggs and fruity granola, our after-breakfast jaunt took us towards Lobster Cove for some final seawatching and a check for songbirds on the way. Much to our surprise, the sighting of the trip awaited us along Ocean Ave.—a roosting Northern Saw-whet Owl—only the 14th record for Monhegan. Discovered by Al Maley as it was being mobbed by chickadees, we were able to get quick and quiet views. Another surprise was the prey in its talons—a Northern Cardinal. A late Common Tern off the point was a final island treat, departing from the shoreline rocks. Before we knew it, it was time to depart the island for Port Clyde, receiving a traditional sendoff, including a gathering of islanders and thrown flowers. Our ride back yielded a couple harbor seals, the flash of a harbor porpoise and two quickly exiting phalaropes—too quick to be sure of species. The prevailing northeast winds and swells took on a seldom used route, passing west of Allen Island and different views as we approached the harbor.
Northern Saw-whet Owl
Harbor Seal
All in all, it was a wonderful trip, full of companionship, good food, beautiful vistas and natural settings, and birds. We managed 104 species for the trip, which included 7 raptor species, 4 shorebirds, 5 flycatchers, 3 vireos, 19 warblers, 7 sparrows, and much more!!
Brett Ewald
Tour Leader
NJA Eco-Travel
